Hello!

Our fish would like to share some information with you about what we have learned after 9 months of caring for it.

All fish have a parasite called Ick (pronounced Ich) in their bodies but their normal metabolic functions keep it under control.
When a betta fish experiences shock the ick can then begin taking over the fish.

If caught in the early stages when the Ick begins to appear with little white spots on the fins or discoloration apply the aquarium salt, if you do not have the salt in the water. Otherwise, then Ick medicine may be purchased and used.

Female betta won’t get Ick.

Ick may also appear if the water temperature is too high.

When you first set up your tank and you condition your water with tap water conditioner and
the aquarium sea salt, let it sit for at least 24 hours so that the water temperature is the
temperature of your house.

If you have natural live plants to prevent excessive algae growth do not expose the aquarium
to more than 5-6 hours of artificial lamp light a day. This is sufficient for healthy plant
growth while limiting algae growth.

Make sure that you buy pure aquarium salt made from evaporated sea water.

Aquarium salt is vital for the health of your fish and should not be omitted. It does not
evaporate or dissolve, however, so only add the salt with each aquarium water change.

One falacy is that Betta fish need very warm water (around 80°F)

The ideal temp is lower 70°F

Make sure you increase or decrease the temp GRADUALLY over a 24 hour period

If possible, until further notice, avoid chemical additives manufactured in China
to avoid the slight possibility of poisoning Betta fish with Melanine or other industrial
impurities.

If installing a heater wait at least 1 hour after placing it in the tank before turning
it on.

Do not rely completely on the heater’s thermostat guage.

From our experience set the heater’s thermostat temperature to 2-4 degrees below the
targeted temperature.